Print illustrated guide

Creating edge moulding on parquet floors 

Edge moulding
This application example shows how easy it can be to produce an edge moulding on a fully glued surface.

    Description

    This is often seen in older buildings and in very large and high-ceilinged rooms, in conjunction with a herringbone or diagonal layout (see Application example 834). A moulding which, as a neater border at the edges, superbly completes the floor. It is a very high-quality way of laying parquet flooring and a good tool is needed in order to produce a clean, professionally laid transition.
    Moulding in older buildings

    Tools/accessories

    The following tools and accessories are recommended in this application example:

    Alternative tools

    The following tools and accessories are recommended as an alternative:

    Preparation/set-up

    • Aligning the moulding

      Lay the guide rail and the plunge-cut saw out ready, as the width of the parquet moulding must be neatly cut. Set the cutting depth of the plunge-cut saw to the height of the parquet.

      +
      Aligning the moulding

    • Defining the width of the parquet moulding

      Define the width of the moulding and align with the angle to 90° in all corners with the angle and mark.

      +
      Defining the width of the parquet moulding

    Procedure

    • Positioning the guide rail

      Position the guide rail on the marker point and cut neatly. Dispose of parquet offcuts immediately.

      +
      Positioning the guide rail

    • Aligning to all walls

      Repeat the whole process on all sides so that, as here, for example, there is a neat right angle. Then vacuum everything.

      +
      Aligning to all walls

    • Preparing the router

      Finding the correct groove cutter In this example, I can use the tongue side of my floorboards as a connector and need this router for the appropriate groove thickness. This can vary according to the thickness of the tongue. If necessary, go through the surfaces in two different thicknesses to make the groove a bit wider. Then vacuum everything again.

      +
      Preparing the router

    • Fitting a groove cutter

      Now the groove cutter can be fitted on the router very easily using the ratchet system. Please ensure that it is inserted up to the mark.

      +
      Fitting a groove cutter

    • Setting the routing height

      The routing height is determined using one of the floorboards which are to be fitted, whereby we loosen the rotary knob on the router, plunge the router up to the upper edge of the groove and scan and then tighten the rotary knob again. Determine the setting using the adjustable stop and depth setting on the router, as in the description. The routing depth is automatically generated with the bearing guide on this router and the machine guided.

      +
      Setting the routing height

    • Routing the groove on all sides

      Connect the router to the power supply and extractor.
      Test on a sample piece first whether the tongue and groove can be connected neatly. If everything fits together, the groove can be routed on the floorboards. Please use both hands to guide the router. Be careful at the ends. Do not tip over, or tilt the machine.

       

      +
      Routing a groove

    • Routed groove

      +
      Routed groove

    • Moulding cut

      In order to achieve the same spacing to some extent, each time adapt the lengths of the floorboards from the centre outwards.

      +
      Moulding cut

    • Angle transfer 1

      If it had not previously been possible to create a right angle, the angle can be produced with a bevel …

      +
      Angle transfer 1

    • Angle transfer 2

      … and be transferred to the special Kapex angle bevel. In this way, a lot of time can be saved through the saw working perfectly in conjunction with the fence. See description.

      +
      Angle transfer 2

    • Marking the inner edge

      And as an aid, lightly mark the mitre direction. So there is no confusion with the different cross-cuts.

      +
      Marking the inner edge

    • Positioning the bevel

      Position the bevel, move the mark to the spot lighting, set and secure the precise angle.

      +
      Positioning the bevel

    • Cutting

      Place on the marker and cut.

      +
      Cutting

    • Adjusting the width

      Measure out the width of the moulding and adjust using the CS 50. Cut all parts with precision.

      +
      Adjusting the width

    • Laying everything dry

      Check for precision when laying

      +
      Laying dry

    • Almost finished

      Now it only remains for the Domino dowels to be placed at the corner joint.

      +
      Almost finished result

    • Marking the domino joint

      Here there are two markings.

      +
      Marking the domino joint

    • Fitting the 4 mm Domino router

      Inserting the cutter

      +
      Fitting the 4 mm Domino router

    • Domino settings

      Depth 20 mm, and set the middle floorboard height. Set one side per corner with the exact width of the Domino dowel.

      +
      Domino settings

    • Counterpart

      Rout the counterpart wider so that it can be pushed in better.

      +
      Counterpart

    • Blunting all cut edges

      To achieve a small chamfer, all cut edges must be lightly sanded.

      +
      Blunting edges

    • Test

      Before gluing, test again whether everything can be pushed together with no problem.

      +
      Test it

    • Gluing the moulding

      Gradually apply the adhesive, glue the floorboards carefully and join. Then clamp the whole thing from the edge with wooden wedges.

      +
      Gluing the moulding

    • Bringing together the corner joints

      Now step 20 stands the test with the wider routing, since the board can be better and more easily positioned and pushed in.

      +
      Bringing together corner joints

    • Glued surfaces with the edge moulding

      +
      Glued surfaces with edge moulding

    1. Our illustrated guides and work results are documented working steps that we have performed in practice. They are individual examples and do not guarantee or promise that users will obtain the same results. The results will depend on the user's experience and skill, as well as the material being used. Illustrated guides do not replace any Festool operating manuals and/or safety instructions. Liability for ensuring that the information, instructions and applications are free from content defects and defects of title, in particular with regard to the absence of defects, correctness, freedom from third party intellectual property rights and copyrights, completeness and fitness for purpose, is excluded. Claims for damages made by the user, regardless of their legal basis, are excluded. These liability exclusions are not applicable if the damage was intentional or caused by gross negligence, or in cases of statutory liability.

      We cannot accept liability for damage resulting from defects.↑